I spent 12 days diving on the Dewi Nusantara in Northern Raja Ampat, and here is my review of the boat and the dive sites. Find out how good the diving really is in Nothern Raja Ampat in September and if is and if the Dewi Nusantara is the boat for you. Read the Dewi Nusantara liveaboard review and see how it went!

How to get to Sorong and Raja Ampat?

To reach Raja Ampat, your entry point is Sorong, a small town located on the west side of Papua. The easiest way to reach Sorong is by taking a flight. You can choose from several transit airports, such as Jakarta International Airport, Sam Ratulangi International Airport in Manado, or Makassar. Most international travelers connect through Jakarta. If you want to add Bali to your trip, the most convenient connection is via Makassar

Which airline should one choose when flying with diving luggage in Indonesia?

When flying within Indonesia with diving gear, Garuda Indonesia is often the most dependable choice for travelers heading to Sorong. The second best choice is Citilink or Batik. And finally Lionair. They have the most planes so can be the most convenient option but their flights are often delayed or canceled. On this trip, out of 4 Lionair flights, one was delayed by 3 hours, the other one 1 hour, and the last one 2 hours… All the other passengers who flew with Garuda,Citilink or Batik were perfectly on time so pick your airline carefully.

Tip: As of the time this article was written, Garuda allows an additional 15 kg of luggage specifically for diving equipment at no extra cost. On my return journey, I opted for Lionair, which charged 65,000 Rp. per kilogram for a flight from Sorong to Makassar. So, if you’re bringing diving equipment, it’s wise to avoid this airline, as your luggage costs could surpass the price of the flight. My lionair booking confirmation mentioned a 20 kg luggage allowance. Yet, the staff at the airport told me it was only 15 kg and made me pay for everything above that. So if you fly Lionair, be ready for anything…

Tip 2: Citilink offers a sports club membership for 450,000 Rp., granting you 20 kg of free diving equipment on all flights. This means you can cover the cost of the membership with just one trip. To join, check here.

Flights within Indonesia are frequently subject to cancellations or delays, so it’s a good idea to consider spending a night in Sorong for added security. Missing your boat due to airport complications is something nobody wants. If you do decide to spend a night in Sorong, you can read my Sorong guide here.

At the time of writing, all flights from Bali to Sorong require an overnight stop in Makasar. There’s an Ibis hotel within the airport where you can get a few hours of rest. Makassar is also a great place to explore. You can read my review of the Mercure hotel in Makassar here and of the trip to Toraja here. Allow 3 to 4 days to explore Toraja. It is an extraordinary place.

Tip : If you have a Garuda boarding pass, you may be eligible for a discount on the room rate at Ibis Makassar Airport. I personally paid 350,000 Rp. for the night.

Getting from Sorong Airport to the Dewi Nusantara Liveaboard

Once you arrive at Sorong Airport, your journey becomes quite straightforward because the Dewi Nusantara liveaboard team arranges to pick you up directly from the airport.

After the overnight flight that landed with 2 hours of delay, I was promptly picked up at 8 am at the airport. Since the check-in time on the boat was 12 p.m., I was taken to the Swissbel Hotel in Sorong for breakfast, where I waited for about three hours before the boat’s pickup. This is organized by the boat. This part was a bit challenging as I hadn’t slept during the overnight flight, and I was eagerly anticipating a comfortable bed. To avoid having to wait for 3 hours in a hotel lobby, you might consider spending a night in Sorong before your Dewi Nusantara cruise. The breakfast quality has room for improvement.

Tip: If you find yourself at the Swissbel Hotel after an overnight flight and need some rest, there are sun loungers available near the pool.

At 11:30, we were picked up from the Swissbel Hotel and transported directly to the harbor, where the tender boat was ready to take us to the Dewi Nusantara.

Tip: There’s a small supermarket by the pier where the tender boat departs. If you require any items, it’s a good idea to purchase them now, as you won’t come across any shops for the next two weeks. I typically like to stock up on snacks and chocolate for the journey.

As I approached the ship, its majestic presence on the water left me in awe. The ship’s teakwood decks, gleaming brass fixtures, and intricate Indonesian designs immediately conveyed the opulence of the upcoming voyage.

The crew warmly welcomed us with a drink, making us feel like esteemed guests from the moment we set foot on board.

Review of the Dewi Nusantara boat

In the world of luxurious live-aboard experiences, the Dewi Nusantara shines as a precious gem, offering a maritime adventure that goes beyond the ordinary. My recent journey on this magnificent vessel left me in awe.

The name “Dewi” signifies the goddess of the sea in Hindu mythology, while “Nusantara” refers to the archipelago.

The Dewi Nusantara is a true work of art. This vessel was constructed in Kalimantan back in 2008. Although it’s now 15 years old, it has been exceptionally well-maintained and remains one of the most impressive ships cruising in Indonesia. Stretching an impressive 57 meters in length and 12 meters in width, it provides a far more spacious feel than most other boats. This generous width allows for more spacious cabins compared to other vessels. It’s worth noting that this ship was constructed using a substantial amount of ironwood, making it hard to replicate in today’s boat-building landscape. To put it simply, they just don’t make boats like this anymore.

While the decor and lighting may have a slightly classic appearance, make no mistake—the Dewi Nusantara is one of the most comfortable and elegant vessels I’ve had the pleasure of sailing on. It exudes a timeless charm.

The ship is divided into three decks and is designed for easy navigation, with wide stairs and spacious hallways so it is suitable for older people or people with mobility issues.

On the main deck, you’ll find both indoor and outdoor dining areas, the lounge, and the kitchen. It’s also home to the diving deck and the camera room.

The upper deck houses the bridge, a sun deck, and an additional shaded area with sofas and lounge chairs. The lower deck accommodates most of the cabins.

Tip: Be cautious, as the wooden floors can become slippery when wet.

With ample lounging areas onboard, thanks to the boat’s size, you’ll always find a comfortable place to relax. Whether you want to socialize with fellow passengers or enjoy some quiet solitude, Dewi Nusantara offers plenty of options.

Another notable feature of the Dewi Nusantara is its exceptional quietness. You can hardly hear the boat’s engines and generators, and they typically avoid playing loud music.

Review of the Indoor lounge

The heart of the boat is the air-conditioned indoor lounge.

On one side of the lounge, there are two spacious dining tables, which come in handy during inclement weather.

The other side of the lounge is furnished with comfortable sofas and a coffee table. The sofas are perfect for relaxation, and the large windows provide panoramic views of the surroundings, all within the comfort of air conditioning.

You’ll find plugs and transformers scattered around, ensuring you can charge your devices regardless of whether they use 120 or 240 volts.

In addition to the dining and lounging areas, there’s a small library offering an exceptional collection of books on fish and critters.

In the center of this lounge, you’ll find a large island counter stocked with tea, coffee, and snacks available throughout the day. There’s also a fridge filled with complimentary soft drinks and beers, while cocktails and wine are offered for an additional charge.

Tip: Dewi Nusantara encourages guests to bring a bottle of alcohol with them on the boat, as alcohol carries a high import duty in Indonesia. You can purchase a bottle duty-free on your way here.

Review of the Outdoor lounge/dive deck

Once you step outside, you’ll come across the outdoor lounge. It’s located at the front of the middle deck and serves dual purposes as a dining area and a hub for diving activities. Here, you’ll discover two spacious wooden tables with shade cover, providing an excellent spot for open-air dining. Having both an indoor and outdoor dining area is quite convenient because it allows meal arrangements to be adjusted based on the weather conditions.

The dive deck is the main area for all things diving. It has spaces to store diving gear and individual stations for guests to prepare their gear. Interestingly, the outdoor dining tables double as spots for dive briefings. There are also special tanks for rinsing cameras and wetsuits. Each diver even gets their own little tank for rinsing masks and personal items. Access to the dinghy is easy, thanks to a staircase on the side of the boat. The crew takes care of loading and unloading all the diving equipment onto the tender, so it’s hassle-free.

Review of the Camera Room on the Dewi Nusantara

The camera room is equipped with charging stations and is impressively well-stocked with chargers, voltage adapters, and air blowers. Each diver has their own camera station, which is roomy and neatly organized with towels and plenty of power plugs. This well-thought-out setup is one reason why Dewi Nusantara is a favorite among renowned photographers.

Review of the Sundeck

The Dewi Nusantara boasts two sun decks on the uppermost level. The larger one at the rear features comfortable sun loungers and outdoor seating areas, offering the perfect place to enjoy panoramic views of the sea. It’s typically shaded, making it an excellent spot to relax in a cool environment. This deck is located just in front of the bridge, where the captain can share insights about the navigation systems.

The other sun deck is at the front of the boat and lacks a covering, so be cautious of the sun. Here, you’ll find four lounge chairs and two hammocks, creating an ideal setting for watching sunsets and stargazing at night.

Spa and Wellness Area: While the Dewi Nusantara provides onboard massages, there isn’t a dedicated spa area. Massages usually take place on the front sundeck during sunset. The cost is $30 USD, and you can sign up for a session in the indoor lounge. Be sure to book early, as only two slots are available each day and they tend to fill up quickly.

Review of the Cabins on the Dewi Nusantara

The Dewi Nusantara offers two types of cabins: a spacious suite on the main deck and eight regular cabins located below the deck. I stayed in regular cabin number 3.

The suite is significantly larger than the regular cabins and exudes opulence. It features expansive panoramic windows overlooking the ocean. However, this suite tends to get booked up quickly, so early reservations are essential if you want to stay in it.

The lower deck hosts the standard cabins, and while the standard cabins are smaller than the suite, they don’t compromise on comfort. These cabins are charming and sophisticated, offering wooden furnishings, private ensuite bathrooms, and small porthole windows with breathtaking ocean views.

The cabin design impresses with its attention to detail and practicality, providing a luxurious haven amidst the vastness of the sea.

These cabins feel spacious for a liveaboard. The beds are super comfortable, offering a choice between twin beds or a double bed configuration. Each cabin also includes a small desk area and ample storage space, a rarity on liveaboards.

Regardless of the cabin category, all Dewi Nusantara guests can expect a range of amenities. These include air conditioning to combat the tropical climate, generous luggage storage, and individual reading lights for those who enjoy a good book or planning their next dive adventure. The cabins receive daily housekeeping services twice a day, ensuring they remain pristine throughout your journey, allowing you to focus on your remarkable adventures both on and off the vessel.

Overview of the Bathroom

The en-suite bathrooms may be compact but are thoughtfully designed. They feature showers enclosed by glass doors, boasting outstanding water temperature and pressure. Shampoo, shower gel, and conditioner are provided.

The toilets are regular ones, not marine toilets, so you can flush toilet paper, which is practical and unusual for boats of this kind. Hooks have been strategically placed in the bathrooms for added convenience, and there’s even a hair dryer.

In summary, the cabins on the Dewi Nusantara are more than just places to rest your head; they are sanctuaries of luxury and elegance at sea. Whether you choose the expansive Master Suite or the regular cabins, you can be sure that your stay will be defined by comfort, style, and an enduring connection to the captivating world of Indonesian waters.

Dive organisation on the Dewi Nusantara

Four Dives a Day

The Dewi Nusantara primarily focuses on diving, offering up to four dives on most days. Typically, the first dive briefing would take place at 7 am, followed by the second around 10:30 am, the third around 3 pm, and, for night divers, the briefing would occur around 6:45 pm.

The maximum allowed dive time is 60 minutes or 50 bars

Diving from Tenders with Exceptional Service

As previously mentioned, the dive deck and camera room are quite spacious. The crew efficiently handled our tanks and all accessories, ensuring they were transferred to the tender before each dive. This exceptional service made it incredibly convenient for us to simply board the tender boat.

The boat has two large tender boats, each accommodating nine divers. With a maximum capacity of 18 divers, there was no need to rotate the tender boat among multiple groups. This setup allowed everyone to dive simultaneously.

One of the key features of Dewi Nusantara is that you can get a five-minute shoulder massage after each dive. Two masseurs are on the dive deck and ready to relax your tight neck and shoulder. It felt divine!

Nitrox Availability

Nitrox, with a consistent oxygen level of 31 percent, is available on the Dewi Nusantara. This level is ideal for diving in Raja Ampat, where depths below 40 meters are generally unnecessary.

For those planning to do three or four dives a day for over a week, I recommend using Nitrox to maximize bottom time. During our 12-day cruise, the Nitrox price was $220 USD.

If you’re not Nitrox certified, you can complete the training on the boat for a small additional fee. Everyone on our trip chose to dive with Nitrox.

All the tanks were filled accurately, and the crew conducted tank analysis before each dive.

Efforts to Ensure Diving Ease with Minimal Current

The Dewi Nusantara team took genuine steps to ensure that all dive sites were accessible to everyone on board. More challenging dive spots were scheduled during slack tide to minimize the impact of currents. They would drop us on the sheltered side of an island to facilitate easy diving. They also avoided complicated sites or adjusted dive times to coincide with decreasing currents. At the same time, they were careful to drop us at the split side of dive site with little current as this is often where most of the fish congregate.

Small Dive Groups and Exceptional Dive Guides

With 15 divers and 5 dive guides, groups consisted of just two to four people. Dive guides play a crucial role in liveaboard experiences, significantly enhancing the enjoyment of dives.

Dewi Nusantara’s dive guides are among the finest in Indonesia. My guide, Steven, was fantastic. He possessed an excellent knowledge of dive sites, led dives with confidence, and had a natural talent for spotting marine life. He frequently spotted large creatures like sharks or rays long before anyone else did. Additionally, he excelled at finding small critters and nudibranchs, adding depth to our dives.

Dive Safety

Each diver was equipped with a Nautilus emergency location device to wear during dives, allowing them to be located in case of being carried away by a current. Additionally, they provided each diver with a surface marker buoy (SMB) and a whistle to enhance dive safety.

Review of the food on the Dewi Nusantara

Exceptional Dining Experience

One of the undeniable highlights of this journey was the delightful culinary adventure. The food served on the Dewi Nusantara surpassed my expectations and stands among the best I’ve ever savored on Indonesian liveaboards. With three talented chefs on board, they masterfully blended Indonesian and international flavors, creating an exquisite dining experience.

One of the chefs had previously worked at the renowned Aman Moyo resort.

Flexible Dining Settings

A wonderful aspect of the Dewi Nusantara is the flexibility in dining settings. Guests can choose to dine either in the indoor dining room or in the refreshing outdoor ambiance. The indoor dining area, with its panoramic windows, allowed us to savor our meals while relishing the ever-changing seascape. However, my personal preference was for outdoor dining, right in the middle of the open ocean. All the meals are taken along large tables which allows you to meet the other passengers. However, because there are four large tables, people looking for a romantic dinner or a family event could also choose to eat on their own.

Four Daily Dining Times

Meals are served four times a day, ensuring no one goes hungry:

The first breakfast is at 6:00 a.m., before the initial dive. It comprises a small buffet with fruits, toasts, croissants, and cereals.

At 8:30 a.m., the second breakfast awaits. You can order items like eggs, salmon, ham, bacon, and Indonesian options before your dive, ensuring a ready meal upon your return.

Lunch, served around 12:30 pm, is presented buffet-style, offering a variety of six or seven dishes daily, blending Western and Indonesian cuisine.

Dinner times were flexible. While some boats serve dinner only after the night dive, the Dewi Nusantara offers two dinner services. Non-night divers can opt to dine at 7 pm, while night divers enjoy their meal around 8:30 pm after returning from their night dive. Each dinner is a four-course menu featuring a soup, salad, main course, and dessert. The dishes vary daily, ranging from fresh snapper to beef tenderloin, lobster or duck curry.

Refreshments and Beverages

Throughout the day, tea, coffee, and snacks are readily available. A fridge is stocked with complimentary soft drinks, sparkling water, and beers. For those interested, wine and cocktails are offered at an additional cost. It’s worth noting that alcohol in Indonesia is quite expensive, as it carries a hefty 300% import tax. A bottle of wine on the Dewi Nusantara costs $72 USD. Complementing dinner, a glass of wine is graciously provided free of charge.

Overview of the other guests on the Dewi Nusantara

Due to its higher price point, guests on Dewi Nusantara tend to be older than on other liveaboards. On my trip, about half the guests were from Europe, and half the guests were from the US.

What was impressive was the number of repeat guests onboard. Over half the passengers had been on the Dewi Nusantara before. One of the guests was even on his 19^th trip! This is a testimony to how much they like the boat! Few liveaboard companies can boast so many repeat customers.

I was also impressed by how well-traveled most passengers were. Most of them were passionate divers and had traveled all around the world to dive. People were extremely friendly and enjoyed sharing diving stories over dinner.

The Dewi Nusantara attracts many high-end underwater photographers. Some of their guides are well-known in the photography community and can help you find the perfect subjects for the perfect pictures.

Review of the service on the Dewi Nusantara

A Crew That Cares

At the heart of the Dewi Nusantara experience lies its remarkable crew, an integral part of the journey’s excellence. Throughout the voyage, their warm smiles, unwavering professionalism, and genuine passion for their work shine brightly.

With a crew-to-passenger ratio that ensures personalized attention, your comfort and enjoyment are their top priorities. Even with a maximum of 18 passengers on board, you’ll find yourself pampered by a dedicated team of 24 crew members.

Meet Rafael, Your Cruise Director

Rafael, the cruise director, brings a wealth of experience from his extensive work on Indonesian boats. His excellent communication skills and captivating storytelling skills added a delightful layer to our dinners, making each evening memorable.

Meticulous Attention to Detail

The crew’s commitment to excellence extends to the finest details. Hendrik, our attentive steward, was always ready with refreshing drinks. The ship’s impeccable condition was a testament to their continuous efforts. While divers explored the underwater wonders, the crew worked tirelessly to maintain the ship’s cleanliness.

Remarkably, many crew members have been part of the Dewi Nusantara team since its inception—15 years of shared experiences. This longevity speaks volumes about the exceptional camaraderie on board. Few liveaboard teams boast such a history of working together harmoniously.

Overview of the dive itinerary – Diving Paradise: North Raja Ampat to yourself

The Dewi Nusantara is not just a vessel of indulgence; it’s a gateway to some of the world’s most extraordinary dive sites. The crew’s dedication to providing an unparalleled diving experience was evident in their meticulous planning and execution. Diving enthusiasts like myself were treated to a surreal underwater world teeming with vibrant coral reefs, majestic manta rays, and curious sea turtles. We were the only boat around and that gave us an added sense of exclusivity. The dive masters’ expertise and the ship’s state-of-the-art equipment ensured our safety and satisfaction at every dive.

day 2: First Glimpse of Raja Ampat underwater

We spent the night near Waisai Island and it was very quiet.

The first dive briefing was at 7 a.m. and we were introduced to the diving procedure onboard Dewi Nusantara. We started the trip strong with the fantastic Friwenbonda dive site.

Friwenbonda dive site

Our first taste of Raja Ampat began on Friwenbonda, a charming little island. Right by its shore, there’s a lovely beach that’s hard to resist. And as we ventured into the water, we were greeted by a stunning underwater world.

To the right, there’s a mini-wall covered in soft corals. The schools of fusiliers and yellow snappers were quite a sight. We even spotted a few sharks and GT cruising around. An eagle ray glided gracefully into the blue expanse. And to our surprise, we came across two wobbegong sharks napping at the bottom. One of them was completely out in the open. The place was teeming with nudibranchs, and we even stumbled upon a crocodile fish.

It’s hard to imagine a better check dive than this one at Friwenbonda!

Mioskon dive site

Mioskon presents itself as yet another enchanting island paradise in this corner of the world, and it is even more special because fruit bats live on the island. The dive site on the eastern side of the island offers a captivating underwater adventure that unfolds in stages.

Descending into the depths, you’ll first encounter a plateau at approximately 5 meters below the surface. From here, the seabed gradually transitions into a steeper slope, revealing a world of underwater marvels.

The split at Mioskon is where the underwater action truly comes to life. Massive schools of blue line snappers, graceful batfish, and vibrant neon and yellow-tailed fusiliers create a mesmerizing spectacle. During our dive, we were fortunate to witness not one, but two schools of barracudas, one at around 15 meters deep and another even further down.

For those with a passion for macro photography, Mioskon doesn’t disappoint. The underwater world here is adorned with a plethora of nudibranchs and shrimps, making it a haven for macro enthusiasts. This dive site is a true gem for anyone seeking to explore the hidden treasures beneath the waves.

Day 3: Cape Kri: Raja Ampat’s Legendary Dive Site

Cape Kri stands as one of Raja Ampat’s most renowned dive sites, and it graces the tip of Kri Island with its natural splendor. As you descend into its depths, you’ll encounter a plateau ranging from 5 to 8 meters in depth, which then gives way to a steep slope plunging to about 60 meters. This site has earned its fame for a remarkable reason: scientists have recorded nearly 400 species of fish during a single 90-minute dive, a world record that attests to its unparalleled biodiversity.

The slopes here are adorned with exquisite corals and soft corals, creating a vibrant underwater tapestry. However, the pièce de résistance lies beyond the coral canvas, where an abundance of marine life awaits.

TIP: Currents can be ferocious on this dive site so bring your reef hook. The shallow end can have a lot of currents so it is better to go down quickly to 15 meters.

This site is a haven with schools of fish, including barracudas, jacks, blacktip sharks, and grey reef sharks. The sheer quantity of marine life is nothing short of incredible. Giant barracudas display little shyness as they approach within centimeters of curious divers.

Sadly, my ear became congested during the dive, forcing me to forgo any further dives that day. While it was a disappointment, I knew that, on a lengthy expedition like this one, prioritizing safety is paramount. Missing a few dives is a small sacrifice compared to the risk of damaging one’s eardrum and potentially missing the entire trip.

Nonetheless, my time spent on the boat was far from dull. The Dewi Nusantara, a vessel of serene beauty, provided a tranquil afternoon with breathtaking vistas of Raja Ampat. Nature rewarded me with the gift of a rainbow and a magnificent sunset, making it a memorable day despite the unforeseen dive interruption.

Day 4. Diving and Kayaking near the mangroves

Our journey continued as we navigated through the night, a four-hour voyage that passed unnoticed aboard the remarkably tranquil Dewi Nusantara. Such was the serenity of this vessel that I hardly felt the gentle sway as we glided through the darkness.

Mayhem Dive Site:

Our first dive beckoned at the Mayhem Dive Site, a submerged pinnacle commencing at above 5 meters below the surface. Here, a bustling underwater world unveiled itself. Schools of barracudas gracefully patrolled the waters, accompanied by the majestic presence of bump-head parrotfish. Silver-sided fish congregated en masse, creating an exhilarating spectacle of marine life. Sharks and GTs, the kings of the depths, were on the prowl, adding an extra layer of excitement to this fantastic dive.

Exploring Citrus and Guam Ridge:

The next three dives were planned for Citrus and Guam Ridge. Unfortunately, I couldn’t join due to ear problems. Instead, I chose to go kayaking in the channel and among the mangroves, and it turned out to be a special experience.

Being alone on the water is incredibly peaceful. You can hear the birds singing and watch fish leaping out of the water. The water is so clear that you can see fish and corals beneath the surface. On the right side of the channel, I stumbled upon a nursery of baby sharks, which was truly magical.

Tip: If you decide to kayak in this area, remember not to get too close to the shore, and check the tide. The coral near the surface is fragile, and a kayak can accidentally damage it.

Day 5. Looking for mantas in Kawe

 

Eagle Rock Dive site

Eagle Rock is a small rock surrounded by a reef plateau at 5 meters.

There are many black corrals around. The sandy bottom at 20 meters is covered with corals bolder with the most colorful soft corrals. The boulders create a very interesting topography with a small swim-through. the combination of black corrals and pastel-colored soft corrals made it look ghostly and psychedelic. we found 2 pigmy seahorses on a gorgonian coral. 2 blacktip sharks were patrolling the area.

We saw a few schooling fusiliers and snappers. A large school of bat fishes passed in the blue. The dive really became magical when a manta made an appearance and came to check us out.

Black rock dive site

This rock is not far from Eagle Rock and has a large shallow plateau at 5 meters that slopes until 18 meters. After that is a sandy bottom with coral boulders.

The topography is less enchanting than eagle rock but what makes this dive site unique is the presence of multiple cleaning stations for mantas. They are often seen during the falling tide. During our dive, we saw 3. One of them was fully black and came back towards us through the whole dive. It is always a special moment to interact with those majestic creatures.

The rest of the afternoon was occupied by tropical rain. it poured so we didn’t get a sunset.

Day 6. Aljui Bay – the most gorgeous soft corals and extraordinary creatures!!

Entering Aljui Bay at sunrise was a majestic experience, as we cruised through the early morning light. The bay is enclosed by towering limestone cliffs that glisten in the sun’s gentle rays. Notably, there’s a pearl farm within the bay, and sightings of dolphins and mobula rays have been reported in these waters.

Tear Drops Dive Site

Tear Drops Dive Site awaits at the entrance of the channel, nestled by a small island.

It features a deep wall that descends to depths of 50 to 60 meters. The journey begins amidst a breathtaking field of cabbage corals. The wall is so stunning that it might just bring tears of awe to your eyes – perhaps the source of its name. This underwater wonderland is adorned with a remarkable diversity of corals, soft corals, sponges, and tunicates, displaying shapes and colors that seem otherworldly.

During our dive, we had the pleasure of encountering electric disco clams, elegant pipefish, and numerous nudibranchs. Bubble corals seemed to be everywhere, and I stumbled upon anemones unlike any I had ever seen before. Gazing into the blue, we were treated to the sight of schooling fusiliers, and a school of around 20 bump-head parrotfish added to the spectacle. The reef’s vibrant red top teemed with a multitude of small fish.

What truly sets this dive site apart is its remarkable wall and the incredible biodiversity it harbors. If I were a marine scientist, I would undoubtedly choose this location for study. The soft corals, fish, and sponges here are unlike anything I’ve seen elsewhere – a truly unique and outstanding place to explore beneath the waves.

Ganan Wall dive siteGanan Dive Site is nestled on an island, also named Ganan, situated in the heart of the channel. As we descended beneath the surface, we discovered a sandy slope that gradually transformed into a magnificent wall in certain areas. The walls are undoubtedly the highlight of this dive. At a depth of 23 meters, we encountered small caves teeming with sweetlips and batfish, creating an enchanting underwater world.

The richness of marine life on the wall is truly captivating. It’s adorned with an abundance of mushrooms and bubble corals, alongside tunicates and soft corals in a kaleidoscope of colors that defy imagination. During our exploration, we were lucky to spot a few pygmy seahorses and even stumbled upon a slumbering walking shark nestled under a rocky overhang

Cendana Pier Dive site

Cendana Pier is the dock right by the pearl factory, and it has two jetties that we dive between.

The pier area is teeming with creatures because the pearl farm tosses scallops there when they harvest pearls, creating a thriving underwater ecosystem.

During our dive here, we came across a variety of marine life, including pipefishes, spottail frogfish, and a school of fusiliers. The sandy slope also features some coral boulders, and the whole area is bustling with fish.

Tip: watch out under the jetties, as it’s filled with sea urchins and barnacles.

Day 7:  Wofoh Island and its white sandy beaches

Edi’s Black Forest dive site

Edi’s Black Forest is a sloping underwater terrain located off the southern island. The reef begins at just 5 meters below the surface and gradually descends to around 25 meters. In one part, it emerges as a ridge. Despite its name, attributed to its black coral cover, to be honest, most of the black coral was not in great shape during our visit.

As we explored the area, we encountered sizable schools of yellowtail fusiliers, while in the deeper sections, schools of surgeonfish and neon fusiliers painted a lively underwater scene. The waters here are also home to many anchovies.

I experienced some ear trouble and had to halt my diving for the day. Instead, we headed to the beach for a walk. The deserted beach was nothing short of paradise, with the soothing sound of waves, pristine white sand, and the azure sea stretching out before us.

While others continued their dive along the slope near Wofoh Island, I opted to snorkel instead. It turned out to be quite an extraordinary snorkeling session. An eagle ray swam remarkably close to me, and I also had the privilege of spotting a blacktip shark and a graceful sea turtle.

As the day drew to a close, the sunset from the deck was once again a breathtaking spectacle, a perfect ending to a day filled with underwater adventures and natural beauty.

Day 8 Yangello – Mayhem underwater and more kayaking near the Mangroves

The waves grew too large, prompting the crew to change our plans and return to Yongello. As we headed back, we were treated to yet another beautiful sunrise. Dolphins decided to join us for breakfast, and the sun was shining once more.

Mayhem Dive Site:

Our next adventure took us back to the Mayhem Dive Site, an underwater pinnacle that begins at just 5 meters below the surface. Our excitement soared as we spotted dolphins above the dive site. Timing our dive during slack tide, we were in for an exhilarating experience.

The underwater world unfolded before us with millions of fish and a flurry of hunting activities. Schools of fusiliers and snappers swam alongside the larger pelagic species like barracudas, tunas, and giant trevallies. Jacks performed their mesmerizing dance, and towards the end of the dive, a school of giant bumphead parrotfishes made a grand appearance. While we didn’t see the dolphins underwater, the real highlight was the graceful presence of mobula rays gliding along the dive site, making it an unforgettable dive.

Unfortunately, my ear problems persisted, forcing me to skip the next two dives near the mangrove of Yongello. Instead, I opted for kayaking which was again stunning. I also snorkeled but that was a bit disappointing as the area wasn’t particularly remarkable and the visibility was bad. I was also afraid to get too close to the mangrove area as crocodiles have been spotted in this zone.

Nevertheless, the sunset from the boat was a magnificent sight, as we witnessed millions of anchovies leaping out of the water, adding a perfect ending to a day filled with both challenges and natural wonders.

Day 9: Sawandarek- A Marine Conservation Success Story

Today, we finally got the chance to visit Sawandarek as the turbulent waves had calmed down.

Sawandarek Dive Site

Sawandarek Dive Site is a splendid hard coral reef located right in front of the Sawandarek jetty. The reef starts at a depth of approximately 5 meters. As we descended to 25 meters, we encountered an expansive area adorned with magnificent cabbage corals, where snappers and sweetlips formed impressive schools.

Sawandarek dive site is protected by the village and has been established as a non-fishing zone. There’s also a small coral restoration project aimed at regrowing corals.

This site is a testament to the outstanding conservation efforts of the local village, much like the animals in the Masai Mara that have grown accustomed to human presence over the years. These marine creatures have grown accustomed to divers and don’t shy away from our presence, making it easy to get up close and appreciate the beauty of this underwater world.

At a depth of 15 meters, we encountered schools of yellowfin schooling barracudas and a giant clam. Blacktip reef sharks gracefully patrolled the area, and the turtles we saw were over a century old, some of the largest I’ve ever encountered.

Around 10 meters, the underwater world transformed into something truly magical. Schools of fusiliers and snappers danced among barracudas, and then the jacks arrived, performing their mesmerizing ballet. The visibility was excellent, the sun bathed the reef in its warm glow, and the underwater world sparkled. It’s not often that you find yourself surrounded by such a vibrant display of marine life without any strong currents.

Later, we embarked on an hour-long cruise to reach the dive Site. The return journey to Sawandarek was pleasant, with the sunset casting its golden hues. We were fortunate to enjoy a sunset drink on the top deck, followed by a delightful alfresco dinner under the evening sky.

Day 10 – Penemu – Staghorn coral capital of the world and a great viewpoint

Our day began near the enchanting Melissa’s Garden Dive Site. We arrived there early morning after a few hours of night navigation

Melissa’s Garden Dive Site:

Melissa’s Garden is a remarkable underwater wonder, comprising three rocky outcrops encircled by an expansive staghorn coral reef. Many consider it to be one of the most exquisite reefs in the world. The top of the reef lies just 5 meters below the surface, making it a rewarding place to spend a considerable amount of time.

Our dive adventure commenced at the split, at a depth of around 15 meters, where we encountered a slumbering wobbegong shark nestled among the sand and coral. The presence of chromis fish in a dazzling array of colors – blues, reds, greens – added a touch of magic to the scene. Alongside them, we spotted barracudas, Napoleon wrasses, groupers, and another wobbegong shark. To top it all off, we came across the largest clam I’ve ever laid eyes on, possibly even larger than the one we saw at Sawandarek the previous day.

Melissa’s Garden Dive Site is a true testament to the extraordinary beauty of our planet’s underwater ecosystems, and it left us in awe of the vibrant marine life thriving beneath the waves.

Batu Rufus Dive Site

Batu Rufus, a small island near Melissa’s Garden, is home to a sloping reef that gently descends underwater. To the east, there’s a ridge, and an enchanting swim-through awaits at approximately 5 meters deep.

Inside, there’s a cozy small lagoon with a homestay. While Batu Rufus may not be the most densely populated with fish, it offers an opportunity to appreciate the reef’s beauty and search for crabs and critters. The sponges and tunicates are particularly stunning. During our dive, we spotted a few pipefishes, including one camouflaged among the mushroom corals.

Keruo Channel Dive Site:

Keruo Channel Dive Site is situated in the channel between two islands and is usually a drift dive. This site boasts an abundance of beautiful hard corals. The reef’s top is adorned with staghorn and soft corals. During our dive, we unfortunately encountered no current, leading to reduced visibility. Consequently, we spent more time exploring the wall. Despite the visibility challenges, we came across an electric clam, a few pipefish, and some nudibranchs, adding a touch of fascination to our dive.

After those 3 dives, we went for a short hike to the Penemu viewpoint. The view is mesmerizing and the wooden steps make it an easy walk.

Day 11 – Looking for more mantas in Dayang

It was hard to believe that it was already the last day of our incredible journey through Northern Raja Ampat. We began our day with breakfast in the stunning Dayang Bay, surrounded by the serene white sandy beaches and the melodious calls of white cockatoos hanging out on the nearby island

Dayang Cleaning Station Dive Site:

Our last 2 dives of the trip would be the Dayang Cleaning Station Dive Site, located near a small island adjacent to Dayang. A channel flows between Dayang and the small island, and there’s also a ridge extending outward. This creates a lot of current and plankton flow, attracting mantas and cleaning fishes.

What makes this dive site truly special are the three manta cleaning stations it hosts. These stations are found at different depths: one at 5 meters, another at 10 meters, and a third at 15 meters. During our two dives, we had the privilege of encountering 3 mantas. The first one was a striking black manta that accompanied us for nearly 10 minutes. Our second dive took place during the falling tide which is usually better for manta’s sighting and we saw 2 more mantas.

Additionally, we were delighted to spot two wobbegong sharks, with one of them peacefully swimming on the seabed. It is not often that you see Wobbegong sharks swimming. They seem to spend most of their days sleeping. Signal gobies were a ubiquitous presence at this site, their graceful hovering above the sandy bottom a mesmerizing sight to behold.

 

Conclusion of my review of the Dewi Nusantara

In summary, my voyage aboard the Dewi Nusantara was a maritime dream come true. This liveaboard experience seamlessly combines luxury and adventure. The boat itself is a marvel, boasting more spacious cabins than those found on other vessels, and the crew’s service is truly world-class. The culinary offerings were exceptional, ranking among the best I’ve encountered during liveaboard trips.

Dewi Nusantara stands out with its exceptional dive guides, some of the finest in Indonesia. They excel at discovering fantastic dive sites that offer easy diving conditions with minimal current. As a result, it’s an excellent choice for older individuals, those with mobility limitations, or photographers who appreciate tranquil dives.

While it may come at a higher price point compared to other Indonesian boats, the experience is undeniably worth the investment, particularly if you can secure the master cabin. The substantial number of returning guests speaks volumes about the exceptional service they consistently provide.

Whether you’re a seasoned diver or a newcomer to the underwater world, Dewi Nusantara provides an unforgettable journey that will leave an indelible mark on your memory. This liveaboard adventure epitomizes the essence of travel at its finest.

I fully enjoyed my trip on the Dewi Nusantara and would love to dive with them again.

 

For more info and bookings, check the Dewi Nusantara website here.

You can also follow them on Instagram here.

For more information about diving, read my articles here.

For more information about traveling in Indonesia, read here.