Ubud Writers & Readers Festival Bali: Honest Review & Tips
After a two-year break, the Ubud festival is back stronger than ever. I had the chance to attend the 2022 edition and here is my review of the festival and some practical tips on how to travel to Ubud, what ticket to buy, where to stay, and how to get the most out of the Ubud Writer’s festival.
Why Trust This Article?
Indonesia has been my home for the past ten years — not a destination I parachute into for a story. I’ve traveled the archipelago from end to end: more than 20 trips to Raja Ampat and Komodo, expeditions through Halmahera, Alor and the Banda Sea, road trips across Sumba and Flores, and countless journeys around Bali in every season, on every kind of transport from private drivers to the public bus. Along the way I’ve slept in everything from Nihi Sumba, once named the best hotel in the world, to remote island guesthouses with no running water or electricity — so when I tell you whether a place, festival or route is worth your time, it’s measured against the whole country, not a brochure. Everything in this article comes from my own visits, with my own photos, and I update it when things change on the ground. More on how I travel and review on my author page.
Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 2026: Dates, Theme and Tickets
The 2026 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival — the 23rd edition — runs from 21 to 25 October 2026, under the theme “Samarasā: Awareness. Empathy. Action.”, drawn from Sanskrit philosophy on the harmony of mind, heart and action. The main festival hub is once again Taman Baca on Jalan Raya Sanggingan, with satellite venues across Ubud. Four-day and one-day passes are sold through the official festival website, workshops are ticketed separately, and many evening events stay free of charge. Ubud hotels sell out well before the festival, so book accommodation as soon as your dates are set — my hotel recommendations below all still apply.
How to get to Ubud, Bali
The main airport is Denpasar, which is connected to many Asian cities and a few European cities. From Denpasar airport, it is 60 or 90 minutes to Ubud, depending on traffic. The easiest way is to ask your accommodation to send a driver to pick you up from the airport. If you have not pre-booked it, there is a counter at the airport with fixed-price airport taxis. A ride to Ubud will cost between 300,000 and 400,000 Indonesian Rupiah.
Who should attend the Ubud writer’s festival?
You do not need to be a writer to attend the festival. The festival is called the writers and readers festival. Many of the attendants are writers, but it also attracts many non-writers. You just need to be keen to discover and learn. The panelists come from various disciplines and geographies. It is a great place to learn more about current topics, like the war in Ukraine, diversity, sustainability, or Indonesian politics. The festival aims to create a safe space to discuss current issues.
The festival lasts for four days, and events take place from 8.30 am until 11 pm. It is, however, much more diverse than book launches and book readings. Most art forms are represented, from art exhibitions to poetry slams, movies, theatre, and music. I was positively surprised by the range of art and topics offered.
The theme of the 2022 festival is uniting humanity, which is fitting, as storytelling can often be seen as soft diplomacy, a way to better understand others.
They even have a program for children with a few activities every day. However, if you want to attend the panels and discussions, I don’t recommend bringing your kids to the “adult” program. Some kids found it hard to stay quiet during all the lectures and were disruptive.
Learning about Indonesian culture
If you like learning about the country you are staying in when you travel, you should definitely attend the Ubud readers and writers’ festival.
Indonesian writers and artists were very well represented and were happy to share their knowledge with participants.
I attended a talk with Papuan writer Aprila Waya and musician Raka Sekar. One of the panels, Voice From the East, tackled the issue of limited access to literature in East Indonesia.
In the panel on the Alternative History of Indonesia, the key question was whether different perspectives change how history is perceived. Peter Carey, Eko Darmoko, and Max Lane were at the festival to explain how the lack of analysis of the New Order’s era is an issue and how literature played a big role in overthrowing the New Order era.
My favorite panel was Bali, 50 Years of Change. Jean Couteau and Eric Buvelo hosted a space where they helped us understand how Bali’s communal society has evolved throughout the years. The talk was fascinating, with many stories but also an analysis of how Bali was likely to evolve.
In the discussion about Jokowi and the new Indonesia, Jokowi’s rise as the President in 2019 was a surprise in some respects, considering how he achieved the position despite his humble background. In this event, Darmawan Prasodjo and Tim Hannigan talked about Jokowi and the impact he’s had on Indonesia.
The movie before you eat was also striking. It tells the story of Indonesian migrant workers being abused on international fishing boats. It was a heart-wrenching story.
How long should you spend at the writer’s festival?
The program is intense, with over 150 speakers over four days, and many people attend as many events as possible.
If you are in Bali on Holiday, it is also possible to attend just one or two sessions a day based on your interests.
Many sessions are free of charge. Day tickets are available, and workshops are ticketed separately.
Should you attend the main program or the side events?
Over the course of four days, there were over 150 events, so you won’t be able to do everything.
The core of the festival is what they call the “main program” You can buy a one-day or four-day ticket for it, which gives you access to the two rooms where the panel discussions with the most famous authors take place.
If seating in a big room and listening to panel discussions is not your thing, there is also a series of paid workshops with more diverse formats like lunches, dinners, and activities. Many workshops are a great way to discover Bali differently. Visitors with different interests could sharpen their knowledge and abilities through the workshops provided during the festival. That included lunch discussions at the Four Seasons, bird-watching walks, writing workshops, and so many other cool things to do in various places around Ubud.
In the Mind, Body, and Soul workshop, Fitri Setyaningsih helped the attendees to seek the elements of nature through body movements. On the other side, YouTuber Andovi Da Lopez was there with his workshop to teach the attendees how to improve our content and create strategies for better engagement.
And, of course, what is a festival in Bali without the integration of Bali culture? Those who wanted to have a deeper insight into Bali’s culture attended the Balinese script workshop. In this workshop, the attendees got to learn how to write a Balinese script.
Besides those paid events, there are also many book launches or sponsored events taking place all over Ubud, which are free of charge.
The evening program was also free of charge. They had some famous Indonesian musicians like Robi Navicula or Kai Mata. Dancers did impromptu performances amongst the audience. Many Indonesian movies were premiering at the festival and were followed by a panel discussion with producers and actors. We even met Miss Indonesia attending the festival!
There was a comedy night, too, but as it was in Indonesian, we didn’t get much out of that… The poetry slam at Betelnut was fantastic
Where to stay while at the festival?
If you want to spend most of your time at the festival, get a hotel next door as it will allow you to alternate between your pool and the events. Traffic in Ubud can be horrible, so getting a hotel near the festival will save you time. On the first day, it took me 70 minutes to drive the 3 kilometers between my villa and the festival! The following days, I hired a motorbike taxi, which saved me 40 minutes each way.
Visitors don’t need to worry about lodging, as there are many incredible hotels in Ubud. Pita Maha Resort & Spa is the most convenient as it is within walking distance. It has a beautiful view and an infinity swimming pool with forest scenery.
Other hotels, such as COMO Uma Ubud and the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, are just a short driving distance away from the festival. COMO Uma and the Four Seasons are well-known for their high-class and luxurious service. In addition, the Four Seasons is one of the main sponsors of the festival, so you might even bump into some of the writers while relaxing by the pool.
Another popular hotel is the Capella Ubud. Its tents are inviting but it is a bit further away from the festival. You don’t have to drive through Ubud centre to get there so it should take about 30 minutes to get there. You can read my full first-hand Capella Ubud review before deciding.
Where to eat while at the festival?
The festival grounds host many stalls by some of the best restaurants and cafes in Bali, so finding good food there is not an issue. Cheese toasts, Indian, Japanese, or Indonesian food is on offer. Cuca, the famous restaurant from Jimbaran, presented a delicious dessert.
One of the best restaurants in Bali is Room 4 Dessert, located a 5-minute walk from the festival. It is worth the experience, but make sure you book well ahead, as they are always full.
Another gastronomic option, a few minutes’ drive from the festival, is Blanco par Mandif.
Also worth mentioning Indus restaurant which is just below one of the main festival event rooms. They have a gorgeous terrace and good food.
For more info, read my article about the best restaurant in Ubud.
FAQ
When is the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 2026?
The 2026 festival takes place from 21 to 25 October 2026 in Ubud, Bali — its 23rd edition — with the theme “Samarasā: Awareness. Empathy. Action.” The main venue is Taman Baca on Jalan Raya Sanggingan, with panels, workshops, film screenings and free evening events spread across town.
Do you need to be a writer to attend?
No. Despite the name, the festival is built for readers and the simply curious as well as writers: panels cover politics, sustainability, Indonesian culture and current affairs, alongside workshops, films, music and poetry slams. You just need to enjoy ideas and conversation.
How do tickets work?
The main program is accessed with a one-day or four-day festival pass bought on the official festival website, while workshops, lunches and special events are ticketed separately. Many book launches, sponsored events and the whole evening program are free. Early-bird passes go on sale months ahead and are the cheapest way in.
In conclusion of my review of the Ubud readers and writer’s festival
The Ubud writer’s festival is a great excuse to visit Bali and Ubud. Whether you want to sample a few events or make it the core of your holiday, you will come out of it knowing more about the Indonesian culture and many other current topics. I highly recommend attending the festival — and with the 2026 edition confirmed for 21–25 October, there is plenty of time to plan your trip around it.
Photos by Lex Film (@lexfilminc)
