I traveled on the Infiniti liveaboard to Tubbataha and this is the review of the trip. Read on to find out more about Tubbataha liveaboard diving, the boat, and practical tips. This is my Tubbataha diving experience in June 2023. If you are considering doing a Tubbataha dive safari on a liveaboard, this article is a must-read to prepare for your trip

How to get to Tubbataha?

Diving boats to Tubbataha depart from Puerto Princesa, a town in the center of Palawan. Puerto Princesa is about 90 minutes flight from Manila airport and with 8 flights a day, it is easy to get there from Manila.

Once onboard, it takes about 9 hours of navigation to reach Tubbataha. The boat departs at the end of the afternoon and boarding was between noon and 3 pm.

For your return flight, the boat returns to Puerto Princesa late on the night before. So flights in the morning are OK. However, it might be better to book a flight after 11 am to ensure the 24 hours security no flight time to avoid decompression sickness.

If you need to connect in Manila to an international flight. Make sure you leave ample time. Allow at least 3 hours between the flights as you need to drive to the domestic terminal and there can be a lot of traffic.

Should you arrive in Puerto Princesa a day earlier?

With boats that involve a lot of navigation on the first day, I like to arrive a day earlier. Should the plane be delayed, it gives me a chance to still catch the boat.

Puerto Princesa has plenty of mid-range hotels and good food. The most convenient hotel is Canvas Hotel. It is right by the airport exit and has a good restaurant.

What to do in Puerto Princesa?

If you have a few more days before or after your liveaboard, Palawan is a beautiful region.

The underwater river near Puerto Princessa is the longest in the world and is worth a visit. The rock formations inside the cave are spectacular.

Tip: If your time is valuable, avoid the organized group tour. I did it and it felt like a non-stop sales pitch. We ended up wasting over 3 hours being stopped at various points to sell us stuff like photos, ziplining tours, and shopping, … We also spent over 1 hour picking up other guests in the city…

June is the time of the Baragatan festival. It is a month-long festival with music, food, and culture that happens every night and is well worth a visit. On the night I was in Puerto Princessa, we were lucky to catch the Manilla philharmonic orchestra. All the Philippines regions were also presenting their arts and crafts. There are food stalls everywhere and the food was delicious. Don’t miss it!

Boarding the Infiniti Liveaboard

Boarding time on the Infiniti liveaboard is between 12 and 3 pm. The boat offers airport or hotel pickup. They picked me up from my hotel at 11.30 and it was my first chance to meet some of the other passengers that were picked up in the same minivan.

We were greeted on board with cold towels, a drink, and a sandwich.

It was then time to pay the fuel surcharge, port fees, and Nitrox fee. The total for all that was 325 USD. It is worth noting that, unlike many liveaboards, all food and drinks are included on the Infiniti liveaboard. Beer, wine, and spirits were readily available. Rental dive gears are also free of charge, making the boat a good value for money and a great liveaboard package for diving Tubbataha.

Tip: Bring cash in USD or euros to avoid the credit card surcharge.

Around 3 pm, they ordered delicious pizzas for everyone to share! We enjoyed them during the boat briefing where they explained the boat safety and logistic. We got time to set up our diving gear before the departure at 6 pm.

Most passengers made it to the sundeck for departure where a wonderful sunset awaited us.

 

Review of the Infiniti Liveaboard

The Infiniti is a 39-meter (133-foot) all-steel liveaboard that was built in 2013. It is classed and certified by RINA, Italy for unrestricted navigation in the open sea. The boat is equipped with state-of-the-art navigation and communication electronics, as well as emergency management systems and firefighting appliances. All inside areas are air conditioned but there are also many comfortable areas if you are not a fan of AC.

The boat Is spacious and comfortable and can accommodate up to 25 guests. During our cruise to Tubbataha, we were 21 passengers and 20 crew members.

The Infiniti boat has been built as a diving liveaboard for rough seas. During our diving trip to Tubbataha, the sea was relatively calm and the boat seemed very stable.

Review of the dining room on the Infiniti Liveaboard

The dining room of the Infiniti Liveaboard is a spacious and well-appointed space where guests can enjoy delicious meals and snacks throughout the day. The room is decorated in a warm and inviting style, with plenty of natural light streaming in through the large windows. The dining room is also equipped with a huge TV that we used often to share videos of our diving adventures.

In addition to the delicious food, the dining room is also a great place to socialize with other guests and learn more about the Philippines. The crew is always happy to answer questions and share their knowledge of the country’s culture and history. After dinner, many guests stayed in the bar area, enjoying many of the complementary drinks provided on the Infiniti liveaboard.

There is a coffee corner where tea, coffee, and biscuits are always available. Fruits are also available.

The library has all the fish books you could wish for and books left by guests that you could exchange.

 

Review of the Sundeck on the Infiniti liveaboard

The sundeck is located at the top of the boat and is a great place to relax and enjoy the sun and the surrounding view. It is equipped with sun loungers, a few sofas, and 2 hammocks!

A shade structure offers protection from the sun on about half of the sundeck. We spent many early evenings on the sundeck enjoying a drink and watching the sun go down!

Beside the sundeck, there are a few more outdoor areas for guests to relax. The tables area at the back of the boat was popular.

Also, there is a seating area at the front of the boat ahead of the captain’s steering room that was great when the boat was navigating.

The Cabins on the Infiniti liveaboard

Overview of the bedroom

The Infiniti has 11 spacious guest cabins, all with ensuite bathrooms, flat-screen TVs, safety boxes, windows, and plenty of storage. The cabins are divided into two categories:

Upper and Main Deck Deluxe Cabins: These cabins have large, picturesque windows. The beds can be configured as double or twin. These cabins are the most luxurious onboard because they have large windows that offer stunning views of the ocean. The beds are comfortable, and the bathrooms are spacious.

Twin Cabins: These cabins are located on the lower deck and have porthole windows. They have 2 twin beds each or a combination of one twin and a bunk bed. These cabins are a good option for those who are looking for a more budget-friendly option (or if the upper deck cabins are already full). They are still comfortable and have the same amenities as the other cabins and might even be a bit larger.

I stayed in a triple cabin 12 below deck. I was a bit worried because it was near the engine room. On some boats, it can be noisy but the Infiniti liveaboard is well soundproofed and I didn’t suffer from the proximity of the engine. We were two people occupying the cabin so there was plenty of storage space, but it would be tighter with 3 people in the cabin.

The cabin is equipped with European-style charging points. There is also a safety box for your valuables.

Tip: If you get easily seasick, request a cabin at the back and below deck as those are the most stable on the boat.

Overview of the bathroom

The bathroom is large by liveaboard standards with an oversize shower that is separated from the rest of the bathroom. Water pressure was good and hot water was readily available. The boat has 22000 Liters of water on board and a water maker so there was ample water during the whole cruise.

Soap and shampoo are provided. There are plenty of convenient hooks in the bathroom and again ample storage under the sink.

Tip: Bring your own conditioner as it is not provided and you will find that sea water is damaging for hairs.

The toilet is a normal toilet. You don’t need to pump to get the water out as on some boats, but you are still not allowed to throw anything in the toilet (including toilet paper)

Overview of the Diving Organization on the Infiniti Liveaboard.

The boat and food are of course important for a good diving holiday but let’s be honest, the most important is the diving. And in this area too, the Infiniti didn’t disappoint. The Infiniti has a great diving organization to maximize your Tubbataha diving experience.

Tubbataha Reef is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its pristine coral reefs, abundant marine life, and remarkable visibility. The Infiniti Liveaboard offers 2-4 dives each day, with an experienced and attentive dive team to guide you through the underwater wonders.

The dive deck, located at the back of the boat, is spacious and efficiently organized, allowing for easy gear preparation and entry into the water.

During our diving trip to Tubbataha, the Infiniti team organized 4 dives a day, except on the first day with 3 dives and the last day with 2 dives.

The first dive would be around 6:30 am, the second dive around 10 am, then 1 pm and 4 pm.

Tip: Don’t miss the first dive of the day as this is when sharks are usually the most active feeding so this is your best chance to see hammerheads and other sharks in action.

Review of the diving deck on the Infiniti Liveaboard

The dive deck is located at the back of the boat on the middle floor and is where divers enter and exit the water. It is typically equipped with a rear platform where we board the dinghies to go diving. The rear platform is easy to access with 2 wide staircases. The dive deck is made of a non-slip material, such as fiberglass or teak, to prevent divers from slipping. It is also important to have a ladder that is easy to climb in and out of, as well as a platform for storing dive gear It has 4 showers that make it convenient to rinse off when coming back from a dive. On the diving deck itself, is a seating area. Each diver is assigned a station for the diving tank and a box to store other items.

Rinsing tanks are well organised and one of them is dedicated to cameras.

While 25 divers might be a lot for a dive deck of this size, it never felt crowded due to the organization on the Infiniti liveaboard. Groups would gear up at different times so that the maximum amount of divers on the deck was usually around 12.

After every dive, we would be greeted back onboard with a hot towel and hot chocolate. Small details like this make the Infiniti one of the Best liveaboard for diving in Tubbataha

 

The dive masters on Infiniti Liveaboard

During our Tubbataha dive safari, the boat had 4 dive masters. All passengers were allocated to groups of 5. My dive guide Launch was an instructor. She was very professional and patient. She did a good job leading our group and was good at finding small critters like pygmy seahorses or nudibranchs.

She was good at avoiding currents by diving the protected side of the dive sites. This resulted in less fish action but much easier dives.

The dive groups were tailored to your experience level and air consumption.

Diving with dinghies

Diving time is limited to 60 minutes and the maximum depth is 30 meters only.

It is also worth noting that gloves, pointer sticks, or reef hocks are not allowed in Tubbataha. This is the first diving area that I see forbidding the use of pointer sticks and I am not sure I understand the purpose.

Tip: if you see a fishing line or a fishing met, don’t attempt to remove it yourself. You should inform the Tubbataha park rangers, and they will take care of it.

Diving safety on the Infiniti liveaboard.

The Infiniti takes divers safety at heart. Each diver is issued with an SMB and a small emergency tracking device. This allows you to be found should you drift away from your diving group.

Most dives also seemed to avoid the current which is good if you are a new or intermediate diver. ( or are an advanced diver who doesn’t like currents 😊 )

They also promote longer safety stops of 5 minutes to avoid decompression sickness.

Nitrox on the Infiniti Liveaboard

Tip: I highly recommend getting Nitrox for the Tubbataha dive safari. During most dives, we spent a lot of time between 20 and 30 meters. Having Nitrox allows you to spend more time down there looking for sharks. Given that the maximum allowed depth is 30 meters, you don’t get close to the Nitrox depth limit.

Nitrox is available for 125 US for the week. If you do not have the Nitrox certification, it is available onboard for a small fee.

The boat has a dive compressor with a membrane and was able to offer Nitrox on a very consistent level. My tanks were always perfectly filled at 200 bars and a Nitrox content consistent between 31.5 and 32.

Can you snorkel in Tubbataha?

Snorkeling is possible but not recommended in Tubbataha. The presence of tiger sharks could be dangerous for snorkelers. Currents could also push snorkellers in the lagoon which would make it difficult for the dingy to pick them up. If you want to snorkel, you might be better off in other destinations in the Philippines like the Visayas.

Overview of the food on the Infiniti Liveaboard

As with most high-end liveaboards, food was served 5 times a day! And as you could expect from one of the best liveaboards for diving Tubbataha, the Infiniti food was tasty.

The day started with a small breakfast that included congee, toast, cereals, and fruits. After the first dive, the big breakfast added 2 or 3 hot dishes that changed daily. it ranged from eggs to pancakes or sausages.

Lunch and dinner were buffet style and had a selection of 4 dishes and salads. it usually included 2 types of meat. The chef on the Infiniti Liveaboard created mouth-watering meals using fresh, local ingredients. The menu features a wide variety of dishes from Filipino, Asian, and Western cuisine, and there is always something to please everyone. The chef is also happy to accommodate any dietary restrictions or allergies.

There is also a wide selection of snacks and drinks available throughout the day and they are also complementary. The Tubbataha liveaboard packages on the Infiniti offer great value for money with all the drinks and diving equipment included ( on other boats, they can charge up to 250 USD for diving gear and 10-15 USD per cocktail so extras can add up quickly)

 

The Staff and the Service on the Infiniti Liveaboard

With 19 crew for 21 passengers, you know that the service will be good.

The staff aboard the Infiniti is professional, friendly, and committed to ensuring guests have a memorable experience. The crew includes a captain, a chef, dive guides, and stewardesses. They provide a high level of service, from assisting with dive gear to keeping the cabins clean and comfortable. The staff’s warmth and dedication contribute significantly to making the Infiniti liveaboard experience truly exceptional.

Overview of the Itinerary on the Infiniti Liveaboard 6 nights Diving Trip to Tubbataha

Day 1: Boarding and making our way to Tubbataha.

Day one was a very relaxed day. We discovered the boat and other passengers. The boat departed around 6 pm and navigated all night to reach Tubbataha on the next day. The main advantage of Tubbataha liveaboard diving is that once in Tubbataha, the distance between dive sites is relatively short.

Day 2: First Day of Diving and Sundowner on the Perfect Sand Atoll

After a peaceful overnight navigation, we arrived at Tubbataha in the early morning and were ready to discover the best dive sites in Tubbataha.

Review of the Tubbataha Ranger Station dive site:

The area around the Ranger Station is teeming with life. As I dove, we were greeted by an array of vibrant coral formations filled with reef fish, and in the deeper sections, we spotted patrolling barracudas. Our excitement peaked when we discovered a pygmy seahorse and a few nudibranchs amidst the delicate and intricate coral structures. Though visibility remained good, the passing storm cast a slightly grey hue over the dive site. This dive site usually sees sharks, eagle rays, and turtles, but we didn’t see any.

Review of the Amos Rock dive site:

Renowned for its remarkable biodiversity, Amos Rock showcased a wall that plummeted into the depths, revealing an extraordinary array of marine life. The reef top, at a depth of about 6 meters, gradually gave way to the deep wall below. As I descended, the marine life captivated my senses, leaving me breathless. This location is frequented by larger marine species. The other group saw a hammerhead shark! We saw an eagle ray and white-tip reef sharks.

Amos Rock’s mesmerizing beauty manifested in its coral gardens, adorned with an abundance of reef fish. People don’t talk enough about how beautiful the reefs in Tubbataha are. From the sponges to the tunicates and intricate corals, this reef was a work of art.

Towards the end of the dive, we stumbled upon a fascinating sight – a grey reef shark resting peacefully under a coral ledge while an inquisitive blue-spotted stingray curiously hovered above. The interaction between these two creatures left me wondering about the underwater drama I had just witnessed.

 

Review of The South Park Dive site

South Park is located in the southern part of the northern atoll, and boasts a sandy slope interspersed with coral bommies, extending up to 16 meters before cascading into a deep wall. The highlight of this dive was an enchanting school of around 20 Napoleon fish, gracing us with their presence. Towards the end of the dive, we were delighted to spot numerous reef sharks, adding to the allure of this captivating dive.

As the day’s diving adventure concluded, we headed to the Tubbataha Ranger Station to witness the enchanting sunset.  The ranger station itself is not very interesting.

There was only a small shop where one can buy T-shirts and souvenirs that we could enter. But the atoll is breathtaking. The white sand and blue water are beautiful.

Tip: If you want to buy a Tubbataha souvenir, bring cash.

With beers and snacks brought by the crew, the evening unfolded into a lively sundowner, making it an unforgettable experience.

Day 3: Diving a Wreck and a Serendipitous Encounter with a Hammerhead Shark!

We set out around 4 am, eager to explore the western side of the North Atoll. Fortunately, as the boat started to move, we could keep sleeping until the 6 am wakeup call 😊

Review of the Malayan wreck dive site

Our first dive took us to the intriguing Malayan wreck site, where a sunken tugboat from the 1970s became an underwater oasis for sweetlips and bumphead parrotfish. The stern and engine of the wreck remained almost intact, resting at a shallow 5 to 6 meters. Once we had our fill of the wreck’s allure, we ventured towards the wall, starting at approximately 10 meters.

The wall, adorned with graceful sea fans, offered a spectacle of its own. White-tip reef sharks patrolled the area, on the lookout for crustacean prey, while octopuses added their mystique to the dive. Amidst this underwater drama, we witnessed a fascinating encounter—a territorial battle between an octopus and other fish species. As our dive drew to a close, a school of jacks and snappers graced us with their presence, leaving us awestruck.

Review of the shark airport dive site

Next on our agenda was the captivating Shark Airport dive site, where the sandy bottom at 10 to 15 meters had an uncanny resemblance to an airport runway. Sleeping sharks seemed to blend seamlessly into the sand, resembling parked airplanes. The wall emerged around 12 meters, plunging into depths of 60 meters. The waters teemed with an abundance of fish. At the start of our dive, a breathtaking spectacle unfolded—a colossal tornado-shaped school of barracudas, numbering over 400. As we marveled at this phenomenon, a hammerhead shark made a fleeting appearance. Grey reef sharks seemed to be everywhere, prompting us to stop pointing them out after a while. Amidst a school of yellowtail barracudas, we discovered a cleverly hidden trio—a shark and its two baby companions. Turtles also made a memorable appearance, completing the fantastic dive. So extraordinary was this experience that we opted to dive the Shark Airport site. This time we did the northeast side. The currents were slightly stronger, including a downward current towards the end of the dive. The intensified current attracted even more sharks, and we were privileged to witness approximately 40 of them majestically swimming along the wall.

As we returned to the boat, most of the group embarked on a fourth dive, while I found solace on the top deck, basking in the tranquil ambiance. Towards the end of the day, against the backdrop of a mesmerizing sunset, accompanied by music and refreshing drinks, the boat gracefully charted its course toward the South Atoll. This is also part of the Joy of doing a Tubbataha dive safari on a liveaboard!

Day 4: Diving amidst an Abundance of Fish at Delsan Wreck

On this day, we woke up bright and early in the northern corner of the South Atoll, ready for another day of underwater exploration.

Review of the black rock dive site

Our first dive took us to the captivating Black Rock dive site. Black Rock is a corner with an exciting life. The wall starts from 5 meters. It is a popular diving site because some of its cleaning stations sometimes attract mantas.

Unfortunately, during our dive, the mantas remained elusive. Nevertheless, we encountered a few grey reefs and blacktip sharks, while schools of snappers and barracudas added their charm to the underwater landscape. Though the day was cloudy and rainy, impeding visibility and lighting, we ventured forth to immerse ourselves in this underwater wonderland.

Tip: Beware as this site is home to numerous hydroids, so maintaining proper buoyancy is essential to avoid their stinging bites, which can last up to two weeks.

Review of the Delsan wreck dive site

Named after a ship that ran aground, the Delsan Wreck site is now a thriving ecosystem teeming with large pelagic, including sharks, and schools of barracuda. The wreck sank in 1968 due to a motor issue. The wreck is very shallow, damaged, and there is not much of it left. This is, however, not the main reason to dive the Delsan wreck dive site.

The wall around it starts at 5 meters and drops down to 70 meters. The walls are adorned with soft and hard corals. Huge sponges are around 40 meters.

While diving here, strong currents provided an exhilarating experience for seasoned divers. The main attraction was the sandy canyon nestled within the wall, featuring a cliff where various fish species sought refuge. This dive unfolded as a true spectacle—thousands of fish gracefully swam near the reef, while a swirling vortex of barracudas mesmerized us. Grey reef sharks and a squadron of eagle rays completed this surreal experience. A school of Randall’s fusiliers with yellow spots created wonderful patterns. Suddenly, they were hunted by sharks and jacks.

We saw 6 turtles and merged with a large school of jacks. It was raining outside, and the reef colors were not amazing, but it was nevertheless a fantastic dive.

Review of the Triggerfish City dive site

Triggerfish City is a shallow plateau at 10 to 16 meters with a sandy bottom where triggerfish like to make nests. Titan triggerfish can be aggressive to protect their nest, so it is best to avoid them.

 

Review of Staghorn Point dive site

This site got its name because of the abundance of staghorn corals. Turtles can be seen digging holes around the corals to feed on the sponges. As with most dive sites in Tubbataha, the edge of the reef is again a wall with cleaning stations. The wall starts at 14 meters and goes below 45 meters.

During our dive, the wall was full of fish. Sharks were passing by non-stop, and we even saw a nurse shark a bit deeper.

Oceanic triggerfish were still present by hundreds, and it was fascinating to see them build their nest and fight off other small fishes.

We got back on the boat by 6 pm. I went to the top deck to watch the sunset, but it was windy and cloudy today, so I was the only one up there.

Day 5: Looking for sharks in the South Atoll

After a rainy day, we woke up to the sun showing up. For the first dive of the day, we decided to go back to Delsan wreck.

We went straight down the wall to the canyon area. A few great barracudas were patrolling the area. Many sharks swam by. A big grey reef shark made an appearance. There were fewer fish than the day before, but as the sun was out, we could enjoy the colorful reef more.

Review of Koi Ko-ok dive site

Koi Ko-ok is the northwest corner of the northern atoll. It is a sandy bottom that goes from 3 to 12 meters. There are coral bommies among the sand. The reef top doesn’t look so good because a big school of bumphead parrotfish likes to destroy the corals to feed.

The most interesting part is the wall and the blue, as some big pelagic occasionally pass by. We spent 20 minutes swimming into the blue looking for hammerheads but didn’t see any.

When we came back to the wall, a few blacktips were patrolling the area. We then stumbled upon a big school of about 400 jacks. One of the other groups saw a huge tiger shark along the wall!

Review of Southwest Wall dive site

Southwest is again a plateau at 5 meters that falls into a wall. There are cleaning stations on the corners. The most interesting aspect of this site is that it is a baby shark kindergarten. The number of sharks was incredible. We must have seen over 40 small sharks in one area. Nurse sharks were also hiding in some of the holes in the walls, so make sure you check them out

Day 6: Final dives at Jessie Beazley Reef

This was already the last day of our Tubbataha diving experience.

Review of the Jessie Beazley Reef Dive site

This reef got its name from the captain of the boat who ran aground on this reef. There is a small sandbar at the surface, and the area is small. It goes down as a mountain, and there are 2 lower plateaus. The western one is at 8 to 10 meters, and it has nice hard corals and bommies.

Tip: There can be down currents, so stay close to the wall.

There was little current during our dive and few fishes along the wall. We spent 20 minutes in the blue looking for hammerheads but didn’t see them. We then came back and drifted along the wall. A white tip reef shark and 5 giant trevallies were hunting along the wall and were fun to watch. we found a few turtles eating. A few tunas and great barracudas passed by. The shallow area is mesmerizing with hundreds of colorful fishes. We found sharks sleeping under the table corals. towards the end of the dive, a school of jacks came up.

We did the second dive at the same place. it was much of the same with a few inquisitive white tip sharks coming to check us out. A titan triggerfish was laying eggs. We spent a bit more time in the shallow area and the corals and soft corals were mesmerizing.

For the last night onboard, everyone gathered on the sundeck to watch a beautiful sunset. The Infiniti Liveaboard where on hand to serve cold beers 🙂

It was a nice ending to what had been a very good week of diving at the best dive site in Tubbataha.

In conclusion of my review of the Infiniti liveaboard in Tubbataha

I have had a great week diving on the Infiniti. The boat provided a comfortable and well-equipped base for exploring the magnificent dive sites of Tubbataha. The crew was attentive, accommodating, and genuinely passionate about the marine environment. From delicious meals to stunning sunsets, the Infiniti Liveaboard delivered a remarkable liveaboard experience without compromising on safety or comfort. The Tubbataha liveaboard package includes a lot of extras like free dive gear and drinks. It is definitely one of the best liveaboards for diving in Tubbataha.

Diving in Tubbataha is an experience. While I was expecting more big fish and action, I was not expecting the corals to be as nice, especially from 5 to 15 meters. The reef is in my opinion what makes Tubbataha special. The diving was relatively easy with mild current making it a good destination for new/ intermediate divers who want to see beautiful reefs and sharks.

I highly recommend the Infiniti Liveaboard and would love to dive with them in another region in the Philippines. You will have a great time on the Infiniti.

Tip: If you want to do a cruise with Infiniti in Tubbataha, make sure you book ahead. The book is full more than 12 months in advance so you need to plan the trip well in advance.

To book your cruise or check prices, you can do it here or on the Infiniti website.

For more info about diving in the Philippines, check my review of the Palawan Explorer diving in Apo Reef and Coron  or my review of diving in Bohol