I recently embarked on a spectacular 12-day Luxury Liveaboard Bali to Komodo on the Tiare Liveaboard, journeying from Bali to the breathtaking Komodo National Park. This trip allowed me to explore the lesser-known diving spots in Sumbawa and experience the majestic Komodo National Park. In this detailed Tiare Liveaboard Review, I’ll share every aspect of this luxury diving adventure in Sumbawa and Komodo.
Getting to Bali
The Tiare cruise departed from Bali, the hub for tourism in Indonesia. I flew into Denpasar Airport, a major international hub with flights from around the world. For those looking to start their exclusive diving trips in Komodo, arriving early in Bali allows for exploring the island’s tranquil spots in the north and east, beyond the bustling tourist centers in the south. I have written many articles on what to do in Bali and the best luxury hotels and villas. You can find them here. If you want to dive, I have also written a few articles about the best dive sites in Bali.
Tiare Liveaboard Review of the Boat
The Tiare Liveaboard is a stunning traditional sailing vessel adorned with classic design and elegant wooden accents. It is an exemplary choice for those seeking the best luxury cruise in Indonesia.
This vessel is 38 meters long and features just six cabins. It offers a spacious and intimate setting, as vessels this size usually have seven or eight cabins. Its three decks are thoughtfully designed to maximize comfort and accessibility. The lower deck houses the cabins, the main deck includes communal areas like the dining room and kitchen, and the top deck boasts a luxurious area with ten sunbeds, perfect for soaking up the sun and enjoying the vast open water.
The Dining Room
The dining room decor combines modern style with a warm, welcoming ambiance, emphasizing wood and natural colors.
The left side features comfortable sofas with plush, white cushioned benches and vibrant red throw pillows, creating a stylish yet cozy setting. Strategically placed charging plugs allow guests to relax and recharge their devices quickly. This area is surrounded by expansive panoramic windows that provide breathtaking views of the surrounding seascape, enhancing the luxury liveaboard experience.
On the right side, a large communal table serves as a gathering spot for meals, fostering a sense of community among guests.
Adjacent to the dining area, the well-stocked coffee and tea station offers a selection of over ten different teas. A fridge filled with complimentary soft drinks and various snacks ensures guests have everything they need at their fingertips.
The Outdoor Dining Area
Located at the front of the boat, the outdoor dining area is both welcoming and spacious. It is equipped with two large tables perfect for enjoying meals in the fresh sea air. A shade can be extended during the day to keep the area cool, and the cozy L-shaped seating area is ideal for relaxing and taking in stunning views as you sail. This setup makes it an excellent place to unwind and socialize, embodying the essence of a top liveaboard cruise in Indonesia.
The Top Deck
The top deck is a generous open space just in front of the bridge, offering a perfect spot for relaxation. With ten lounge chairs and several beanbags available, there is always ample seating for all guests, ensuring comfort even when the boat is fully occupied. The thoughtfully shaded area provides a cool and comfortable retreat from the sun. This feature is particularly notable as the Tiare Liveaboard can keep the shade up in most situations, ensuring this space remains inviting.
Overview of the Cabins on the Tiare Liveaboard
I stayed in triple cabin number 1, which features a king bed that can be separated into two twin beds and a single bed. The cabin is spacious and well-appointed, and a comfortable extra bed that I used as a sofa enhanced the comfort of my stay.
A porthole window allows natural light to fill the room, offering a lovely glimpse of the sea.
The cabin’s central cupboard isn’t very large, but ample additional storage space and numerous practical hooks add convenience.
The individually adjustable air conditioning keeps the environment fresh and cool, a pleasant contrast to the often damp lower decks found on other boats.
The cabin also includes high-quality amenities such as a safety box, hairdryer, and several European-style plugs, with thoughtfully designed adjustable lighting that allows guests to set the perfect mood. The attention to detail is evident in the provision of a beach bag, bathrobes, extra amenities, and stylish beach towels. It is small details like that that help solidify the Tiare’s reputation as a top choice for an exclusive live-aboard experience.
The bathroom layout is a bit unconventional. The sink is located in the bedroom, while the toilet and shower are housed separately in an ensuite room.
They offer high-quality soap, shampoo, conditioner, and a charming amenities bag containing essentials like a toothbrush, razor, and shower cap.
Overview of the Food on the Tiare Liveaboard
The Tiare Liveaboard offers a varied selection of dishes with consistently tasty and diverse meals during the 11-day cruise. While the dining experience may not reach Michelin-star level, each dining occasion is a pleasure. It was especially nice that we took most meals on the outdoor dining room, as the weather was good during our cruise.
Breakfasts to Start the Day
Our daily routine started with a light breakfast before the morning dive. This meal typically consisted of fresh fruits, toats and cereals. Following the dive, the chefs prepared a heartier breakfast, with options like eggs, pancakes, toast, noodles, or rice dishes available for order. The breakfast was ready for us when we returned to the boat, allowing us to refuel and share our morning dive experiences.
Satisfying Snacks and Refreshments
Between the third and fourth dives, around 5:00 PM, we were treated to snacks. These included local favorites like fried bananas and fried tofu, alongside universally loved treats such as cakes and a selection of fresh fruits, which kept us content and well-fed until dinner. Complimentary coffee and orange juice were available throughout the day, along with a generous selection of teas that were a particular joy for tea enthusiasts. Snacks (chips, cookies,…) and fruits are also constantly available.
Lunch and Dinner – A Feast for the Senses
Lunch and dinner were served at the table, often with a light, flavorful soup. The main courses were impressively diverse, featuring dishes such as tuna curry, lasagna, tenderloin steak with rice, pasta, and salmon. All the dishes were very tasty and expertly prepared. The chef was flexible in adjusting dishes to accommodate dietary restrictions and individual preferences. Whether increasing the spice for those who enjoyed a fiery kick or toning it down for others, the kitchen was adept at customization, enhancing the dining experience for everyone on board.
Beverages to Complement Your Meal
In addition to the non-alcoholic beverages available throughout the day, guests could purchase beer, wine, and bottles of alcohol. The prices were reasonable, with beer available for USD 3.5 and bottles of alcohol starting at USD 100, ensuring everyone could enjoy their preferred drink without concern.
Review of the Diving Organization on the Tiare Liveaboard
Diving on the Tiare liveaboard is exceptionally well-organized and offers an exclusive diving trip in Komodo. With a maximum of only 12 divers, the underwater experience never feels crowded.
Dive Briefing and Diving Groups
The Tiare accommodates up to 12 divers, ensuring personalized attention and an intimate luxury liveaboard experience. Most divers during my trip were highly skilled, with many holding instructor-level certifications. I have the rescue diving certification and about 1500 dives, and I was one of the least experienced divers on the boat 😊
We had two dive masters for our group of 5, and we would often dive all together as one group. The Tiare offers three to four dives daily, typically at 7:30 a.m., 11 a.m., 3 p.m., and 6 p.m. These times may vary slightly depending on the travel time between dive sites. The pre-dive briefing by Seno, our cruise director and dive master, added a layer of comfort and safety, ensuring all divers were well-informed about the dive site specifics.
Experienced dive masters
Our divemaster Seno is very experienced, with over 20 years of diving in Indonesia. He knows the dive sites well and was able to select the best dive sites for us. The itinerary that he created was very good. The Tiare might not be the fastest boat around, but it is compact and sturdy. It can reach dive sites that most boats would not even attempt. This became visible when we went down south Komodo and were the only boat at dive sites like Manta Alley or Canibal Rock. This, to me, really differentiates Tiare from other, more affordable boats.
Tiare Diving Rules: Generous dive time
The maximum dive time on the Tiare is generally 60 minutes. However, when conditions permit, flexibility is provided, extending many dives to 70 or even 80 minutes. This flexibility is a significant advantage for divers with good air consumption, offering up to 30 percent more diving time than other boats that strictly adhere to shorter dive durations.
A 3-minute safety stop at 5 meters is mandatory for all dives, strictly no-decompression dives.
Nitrox is available for an additional USD 15 per day. It is essential for the deeper dives of the Komodo itinerary, consistently mixed to around 30 percent. A dive guide checks each diver’s Nitrox levels before every dive, ensuring safety and optimal dive profiles.
Tip: Gloves are not allowed when diving in the Komodo National Park
Tender Boat Diving
All dives from the Tiare are conducted using 2 spacious tender boats designed to enhance diver comfort and efficiency. The boats accommodate up to 12 divers in 3 groups, and the crew’s efficient equipment management allows divers to focus solely on their dive without the hassle of managing heavy gear. It was easy to get in and out of the tender boat with a staircase.
We only needed to carry our masks and cameras, and the crew took care of loading and unloading all the other gear.
The tender boat drivers were attentive and followed the divers through the dive. I had to abort one of the dives early, and they were near where I surfaced.
Post-dive, a warm drink or freshly squeezed juice awaits the divers, highlighting the 5-star service on this exclusive Indonesian liveaboard.
Review of the Dive Deck on the Tiare liveaboard
The dive deck on the Tiare is spacious and well-organized. Each diver is assigned at the beginning of the cruise with a personal storage box under each seat. This setup is perfect for professional and amateur divers alike, providing easy access to gear and a smooth transition into and out of diving equipment. A warm, plush towel awaits every diver after each dive, adding a touch of luxury to the experience.
Perfect Setup for Photographers
The Tiare is thoughtfully designed for underwater photographers. It features a dedicated area for camera preparation and charging, making it ideal for capturing their underwater adventures.
Water Temperature When Diving in Komodo and Sumbawa
During my visit in July, water temperatures in Sumbawa and North and Central Komodo were comfortably warm, typically ranging from 26 to 28 degrees Celsius, suitable for a 3mm wetsuit. In South Komodo and the Padar area, temperatures dropped to about 24 degrees Celsius, which may feel cooler, necessitating the use of a thicker wetsuit.
Tip: Currents and swells in Komodo can be strong, requiring heavy finning. I recommend bringing diving socks to prevent blisters and consider a reef hook for maintaining position in strong currents.
Overview of the Internet on a Cruise from Bali to Komodo
Staying connected is essential for most people, even in remote locations like Komodo National Park. The Tiare’s onboard internet service ensures that guests can share their experiences on this luxury cruise from Bali to Komodo, no matter where they are.
The Tiare Liveaboard provides internet access through WIFI. They use a modem based on a 4G card. Thus, when a mobile phone signal is available in the area, you can connect to the Tiare wifi.
Tip: If you want a stronger connection, consider purchasing your own Telkomsel SIM card. This SIM card for your mobile phone costs about 150,000 Indonesian rupiah (around 10 USD) and includes a month-long data plan. Telkomsel offers the best coverage in Indonesia’s remote regions.
Bali itself has good 4G coverage. The connection was intermittent during the crossing through Sumbawa and Lombok, mostly available near towns and villages. Still, we have access to the internet every day, even if just for a few hours.
There is a weak connection near the village in the Sangean volcano. The deep south of Komodo is another area without internet. The areas near Manta Alley and Pulau Kode do not have internet.
The internet connection was generally good in most of Komodo National Park, with 3G or 4G available for several hours daily. The boat typically anchored in areas with internet signals overnight. While it’s unsuitable for downloading movies, the connection was adequate for web browsing, checking emails, and using messenger services.
Tip: The internet signal on your phone is stronger the higher you go on the boat. It often didn’t work in the cabin but was accessible on the sun deck.
Overview of Our Itinerary on the Cruise from Bali to Komodo
Day 1: Embarkation
We boarded the Tiare Liveaboard at 10 AM at Serangan Harbour, about 30 minutes from Denpasar Airport. As soon as my car arrived in the harbor parking area, a Tiare staff found me, took care of my bags, and drove me to the boat. It was all seamless. Once on board, we were welcomed with a refreshing fruit cocktail and shown to our cabins.
After a delightful lunch during which we met fellow passengers, Seno, the main dive master, conducted a short briefing. He highlighted the itinerary for our trip, introduced the crew, and covered practical aspects of life on the boat. We then set up our dive gear and assembled our cameras, preparing for the adventure ahead. Departing Bali around 3 PM, we cruised along the East Coast, relaxing on the deck and enjoying a stunning sunset over Bali’s Mount Agung. The sea between Lombok and Bali can be treacherous, but it was calm that night, providing us with a restful sleep as we navigated overnight.
Day 2: Diving in Lombok
We woke up after a peaceful night and learned of a slight change in the schedule, as the boat had been cruising slower than anticipated, at around 4-5 knots. This delay meant our first dive was postponed by two hours, allowing us time to reach the dive site. Despite the change, the day promised exciting diving experiences in the waters around Lombok. They offered 2 dives near Sulat Island, which I couldn’t join because of an ear infection. So, I just stayed onboard and enjoyed the boat. We started cruising towards Sumbawa around 5 pm and it was a beautiful journey with again a stunning sunset.
Day 3: Diving and Hiking on Moyo Island, Sumbawa
Moyo Island Long Reef Dive site was the first good surprise of the trip as it was my first time diving on this site. Long Reef is a pinnacle 700 meters from the main island. It starts at 7 meters and goes down into a slope that is very deep. The pinnacle is huge; it is over 200 meters long. The corals are not fantastic, but the sponges are magnificent. There are some of the biggest sponges I have ever seen. Many barrel sponges were bigger than me. Sponges are amazing creatures and can be thousands of years old! But what made the dive very special was the number of fish—thousands and thousands of them—schools of fusiliers, surgeon fish, butterfly fish,…Their graceful dance was mesmerizing. We saw 2 sharks and a turtle. A few giant trevallies were also hunting. It was magnificent.
We then proceeded to the Mata Jitu waterfall, which required a 25-minute motorbike ride on a small, uncomfortable road. The journey to get there was arduous, but the destination was definitely worth it. As I walked towards the waterfall, the sound of rushing water grew louder with every step, building anticipation. When I finally reached the clearing, I was greeted by the breathtaking view of Mata Jitu Waterfall. The waterfall has multiple tiers, each offering a unique and beautiful sight as well as a new pool to explore. The water is crystal clear, flowing over smooth rocks and gathering in serene, emerald pools that are perfect for a refreshing swim.
The main pool, right under the biggest part of the waterfall, is truly incredible. The water falls with grace and power, creating a cool mist that fills the air.
Tip: Put your swimming suit on if you want to swim in the waterfall.
After the waterfall adventure, we explored the Angel Reef dive site, a submerged plateau at a depth of 5 meters that gradually descends into a wall reaching about 25 meters deep. The highlight was undoubtedly the corner of this wall, which offered breathtaking scenery. Here, we encountered a huge school of fusiliers, numbering in the thousands, swirling gracefully around us. The sponges, with their impressive size, added to the spectacle of the scene. Beyond the corner, the landscape transitioned into a sandy slope that, while less captivating, served as a reminder of the diverse terrain underwater. Reflecting on our dive, staying longer at the stunning wall corner would have been better as there wasn’t much to look at in the sandy area.
Day 4: Whale Sharks Action in Saleh Bay, Sumbawa
We arrived at the bay near Tambora Volcano early in the morning, excited to see whale sharks. Whale sharks often congregate at fishing platforms in the early morning, hoping to catch the fish that fell off the nets being raised after a night of fishing. Nowadays, it has become a tourist attraction, so the fisherman keeps dropping fish for a few hours to retain the whale sharks and allow tourists to swim with them.
At 6:30 am, we heard that a whale shark had been spotted near a fishing platform. Without delay, we joined other snorkelers in the water. It was crowded, with about 20 snorkelers in the water. We were the only divers. Unfortunately, some people didn’t follow the rules and were observed touching the whale shark, which is prohibited. One person, in particular, repeatedly free-dived and touched the whale shark, which was very concerning. The whale shark was about 5 meters long, and it was still an impressive experience.
After spending about 50 minutes in the water, we returned to the boat, only to discover more exciting news: three other whale sharks were lingering near another fishing platform. We quickly geared up and jumped back in. One of them, an immense creature stretching approximately 8 meters long, left us in awe. What made it even more extraordinary was that there were only three of us in the water, making the encounter feel incredibly intimate and unforgettable.
Should you snorkel or dive with the whale sharks?
You can choose to snorkel or dive with the whale sharks. Snorkeling is better because you get a better view of them at the surface, where they are feeding. However, it can be very busy with other snorkelers, many of whom have little snorkeling experience kicking and splashing. So, if you see many snorkelers on the platform, I suggest diving. If there are no other people on the platform, I suggest snorkeling.
Later in the day, we were offered another dive opportunity in the bay before embarking on our journey towards Sangean Island. Navigating along the stunning coast of Sumbawa throughout the afternoon and into the night was a breathtaking experience in itself. Twice during the afternoon, we were treated to the sight of dolphins gracefully leaping alongside our boat. Overall, it was a day filled with remarkable encounters and natural wonders, reminding us of the beauty and diversity of our oceans.
Day 5: Sangean Island Macro, Sumbawa
Our first two dives at Sangean Island village led us to explore the expansive black sand area just off the village shoreline. Initially appearing devoid of life, the sandy bottom soon revealed its hidden treasures, showcasing why Sangean is, in my opinion, one of Indonesia’s top spots for macro photography and creature spotting.
As we carefully combed through the sand, our efforts were rewarded with an array of fascinating discoveries. Three tiny frogfish stole the show—each a miniature marvel in its own right. One was jet black, blending perfectly with its surroundings, while another flaunted a striking pink hue that contrasted vividly against the dark backdrop. The third frogfish sported a captivating pattern of white and orange, resembling a living work of art in the underwater landscape.
In addition to the frogfish, we were treated to an encounter with a wonderpuss, a species of octopus known for its intricate patterns and graceful movements. Its fluid motions across the sandy seabed left us mesmerized, capturing the essence of underwater grace. Nearby, dwarf cuttlefish hovered gracefully with their intricate color patterns and delicate movements.
The dive also revealed a vibrant collection of nudibranchs, their varied colors, and shapes adding splashes of brilliance to the sandy expanse. Among the nooks and crannies of the seabed, numerous crabs scuttled about, adding their own charm to the bustling underwater scene.
Such was the richness of this dive site that we were compelled to request a second dive, eager to delve deeper into the mysteries and marvels of Sangean’s underwater world. Each moment spent exploring its depths reaffirmed why this island is a paradise for divers seeking the beauty and diversity of macro marine life.
All the photos below are from Don Bouchard, who was a passenger on the cruise with us and was kind enough to share his amazing pictures with us. All the pictures with DB in the corner are from him
The Sangean Bubble dive site was absolutely stunning. Picture a landscape of black sand dotted with countless coral bommies and mini-walls interspersed with enticing swim-throughs. What truly sets this site apart is the constant stream of hot air bubbles rising from the seabed, a testament to the volcanic activity lurking beneath. Combined with the presence of sulfur, these unique conditions create an environment where the most vibrant soft corals thrive.
The corals’ colors are nothing short of astonishing. Soft hues of yellow, green, and fluorescent pink splash the underwater scenery in a riot of vibrancy. The corals’ shapes are equally mesmerizing, twisting and spiraling in forms that seem almost surreal. Pink and green anemones sway gently in the current, adding to the otherworldly ambiance.
Exploring this underwater wonderland, we were delighted to encounter several striking nudibranch species, each adorned in its own intricate pattern and color scheme. Amidst this psychedelic backdrop, a school of yellow snappers gracefully weaved through the corals, their bright bodies contrasting vividly against the kaleidoscope of colors.
Day 6: Castle and Crystal Rock
Castle Rock was the first dive of the day. The site is renowned for its impressive underwater pinnacle that rises dramatically from the sea floor, and it’s known for its vibrant marine life and stunning coral formations. it is my favorite dive site in Komodo!
We began our dive at Castle Rock by descending into the clear blue water, immediately surrounded by a plethora of colorful fish. The visibility was excellent, allowing us to fully appreciate the site’s breathtaking topography. As we descended further, we encountered schools of trevallies and fusiliers swirling around the rock. The pinnacle itself was covered in soft corals and sponges, providing a striking contrast to the abundant marine life.
One of the highlights of the dive was observing a group of white-tip and the bigger grey reef sharks patrolling the area. Additionally, we saw several large Napoleon wrasses and numerous smaller reef fish darting in and out of the coral. During our dive, the current was moderate, adding an exhilarating aspect to the experience without being overwhelming.
Tip: Ensuring excellent buoyancy skills is crucial to handle the currents effectively. Overinflating your BCD can cause you to lose control, especially in stronger currents. Staying near the rock formation can provide some shelter from the currents and make the dive more manageable. Keeping an eye on your surroundings and staying close to your dive buddy is essential, as strong currents can separate divers quickly.
Crystal Rock was the second dive of the day. It is composed of two submerged pinnacles near Gili Lawalaut. The biggest rock rises to the surface, while the smaller one sits 12 meters below. Both rocks are teeming with life and sculpted by powerful currents, making this site particularly dynamic.
We descended into the clear waters of Crystal Rock, and the beauty of the site quickly became evident. Once below, the site revealed an abundance of marine life. The sheer volume of fish was genuinely stunning, with schools of fish swirling around us, creating a vibrant underwater ballet.
On the sheltered side of the rock, the calmer waters allowed smaller creatures to thrive. Pigmy seahorses and colorful nudibranchs could be found nestled among the corals, adding a different kind of beauty to the area. We also found 2 crocodile fishes at about 15 meters.
Tip: It’s important to note that there is often more current close to the surface at Crystal Rock. To manage this, we descended quickly, employing a negative entry to avoid being swept away by the surface currents.
The Cauldron Dive Site a unique site featuring a bowl-shaped depression with steep walls, creating a natural underwater amphitheater. Divers enter via a gentle slope that leads down into the ‘bowl,’ which is teeming with vibrant corals and diverse marine life.
A standout feature of The Cauldron is the narrow passage known as “The Shotgun.” This channel links the bowl to a deeper section and generates a natural current, which can vary in strength. During our dive, the current was mild, allowing us to navigate the channel with ease. The gentler current made this portion of the dive less thrilling compared to times when the current is stronger.
Tip: When the current is strong, it is common to see divers who are not prepared getting tossed around and unexpectedly surfacing.To prevent unintended surfacing, deflate your BCD as you exit the Cauldron. The current will push you upward, so reducing the air in your BCD beforehand will help you maintain proper buoyancy as you ascend quickly. Stay calm, as the strong current in the channel will subside after a few minutes of drifting. Instead of fighting the current, enjoy the drift and monitor your buoyancy.
Tip: As you move through the channel, keep an eye out for mantas, which often linger in the current. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any during our dive.
Towards the end of the dive, we explored the sandy bottom and a stunning shallow coral garden, where we encountered various critters such as garden eels and gobies. It was a tranquil way to conclude the dive.
Day 7:Mantas and dragons
Diving in Manta Alley, Komodo is an adventure that should be on every diving enthusiast’s bucket list.It might be the best place in Indonesia to dive with Mantas. This unique dive site is located around a rocky island that juts out from the water, offering a distinct landmark for divers. Our exploration began on the northern side, where we encountered a cleaning station at a shallow depth of 5 meters. As we descended into the greenish waters, we were immediately greeted by the graceful movement of two black mantas. Their elegance and size were truly captivating.
For our first dive, we ventured deeper into the channel, reaching depths of 15 to 20 meters. Here, we were treated to a remarkable sight: twenty mantas feeding together. Watching these magnificent creatures glide effortlessly through the water as they fed left a lasting impression.
On our second dive, we explored an even deeper cleaning station at about 20 meters. The mantas continued to arrive, putting on a continuous show for almost 40 minutes. We maintained a respectful distance and allowed them to approach us, ensuring that we did not disturb their natural behavior.
Tip: if you approach the mantas or enter the cleaning station, they will swim away, but if you remain still, their curiosity will bring them closer. At times, they came within touching distance, making eye contact with us. This created a series of very special moments that we will always cherish.
We were fortunate that Tiare was the only boat anchored in the area that day. The sea conditions were a bit rough, and many boats in Komodo are not designed to handle such conditions. However, Tiare’s compact and sturdy build ensured a smooth journey. The crew’s dedication and willingness to go the extra mile provided us with an exceptional diving experience. Being the only boat diving with 30 mantas without the usual crowds of Komodo’s high season made the experience even more special.
The day was far from over. After a rough three-hour navigation, we arrived on Komodo Island to search for the famous Komodo dragons. Since we were late due to the rough seas, it was already 4 PM, and we were the only tourists left in the park. The tour began on a discouraging note as the ranger informed us that no Komodo dragons had been spotted that day, making it unlikely we would see one.
Undeterred, we set off on a walk through the island’s rugged terrain, hopeful for a glimpse of these legendary creatures. As we trekked through the dense foliage, the island’s raw beauty was on full display, with its towering trees and the distant sound of exotic birds creating an almost mystical atmosphere. Just when it seemed our quest might be in vain, I noticed something moving in the bushes—it was a Komodo dragon! Although it quickly retreated into the undergrowth, our excitement was reignited.
Determined, we followed the dragon’s trail deeper into the forest. Suddenly, we stumbled upon an incredible sight: the Komodo dragon had killed a deer and was feasting on its fresh kill. This moment alone would have been enough to make our trip worthwhile, but the scene was about to get even more remarkable. As we watched in awe, two more dragons appeared, drawn by the scent of the carcass. They were two males and a female, and their presence set off a chain of dramatic events.
The three dragons engaged in a primal dance of feeding, mating, and fighting. The males jostled for dominance, their powerful bodies clashing in a display of raw strength and aggression. The female, meanwhile, remained focused on the meal, occasionally glancing at the combatants. We stood in stunned silence, captivated by this rare glimpse into the lives of these ancient reptiles. The encounter felt like a scene from a wildlife documentary, unfolding just a few meters away.
For nearly two hours, we watched this extraordinary natural spectacle. The dragons’ interactions were a mesmerizing mix of brutality and grace, a testament to their survival in one of the world’s harshest environments. As the sun began to set, casting a golden hue over the island, we knew it was time to return to the boat.
It was sad to see so many plastic trash on the beach near the ranger station
We arrived back just in time to witness the stunning sunset, the sky ablaze with vibrant colors. The day’s adventures had left us exhilarated, but for those with energy still to spare, a night dive was offered.
Reflecting on the day, we realized we had experienced some of the most awe-inspiring animal encounters on earth. From the graceful mantas of Manta Alley to the raw power of the Komodo dragons, the day’s events left an indelible mark on our memories.
Day 8: Current city
Batu Bolong, the most famous dive site in Komodo National Park, offers an underwater experience that is nothing short of spectacular. The site’s topography is characterized by a large rock pinnacle that rises dramatically from the depths, creating a thriving ecosystem teeming with marine life. The steep walls of the pinnacle are adorned with vibrant coral formations, while numerous crevices and overhangs provide shelter for a variety of creatures.
During the dive, we were greeted by a school of about 20 giant trevally, their silver bodies glistening as they moved in perfect synchronization. These impressive fish added a dynamic element to the dive, showcasing the site’s rich biodiversity. In addition to the trevally, the dive was made even more memorable by the presence of inquisitive turtles. These gentle creatures swam gracefully around us, displaying a level of curiosity that made for some unforgettable encounters.
It was crowded underwater, with a few other groups diving at the same time. It was horrible to see a photographer wearing gloves repeatedly grabbing and kicking corals and sponges to take a picture of a fish. No picture is worth destroying the reef.
It didn’t prevent us from enjoying the shallower part of the dive site. The conditions on the day of our dive were perfect. The sun was shining brightly, illuminating the underwater world and enhancing the stunning visibility. The scene was breathtaking, with sunlight filtering through the water and casting a magical glow on the corals and millions of Anthias fish below.
After an exhilarating dive at Batu Bolong, we headed north to dive at Golden Passage. Known for its strong currents, Golden Passage is typically a drift dive. However, we had the opportunity to dive near slack tide, resulting in an unusually calm experience with no current to contend with.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side, and the overcast skies cast a grey hue over the site. This, combined with the coral bleaching caused by recent high temperatures and ongoing fishing activities in Komodo, gave the site a somewhat somber appearance. Despite these challenges, the dive still offered moments of beauty and excitement.
One of the highlights of our dive was encountering two majestic mobulas rays cruising by. Their graceful movements were mesmerizing, adding a touch of wonder to the otherwise subdued landscape. Additionally, we spotted a leaf fish, an interesting find that added to the diversity of our underwater sightings.
As the dive progressed, the current began to pick up towards the end, reminding us of the site’s typical conditions. The shallow area was particularly pretty, with patches of healthy coral and vibrant marine life providing a splash of color.
It was a cloudy and windy day, which are rare in Komodo so we didn’t get a great sunset tonight.
Day 9: Looking for mantas at Manta Point
We liked Batu Bolong so much that we asked to dive it one more time. On our second dive, the site was even more thrilling. More sharks were patrolling the area, their sleek forms gliding effortlessly through the water, creating an atmosphere of excitement and awe. In addition to the sharks, we found a few nudibranchs, their vibrant colors and intricate patterns adding a touch of delicate beauty to the underwater landscape. Unfortunately, I had a bit of bad luck and flooded my camera during that dive!
After our time at Batu Bolong, we headed to Manta Point, a dive site renowned for its manta rays. The site is primarily a large expanse of coral rubbles, providing a unique and varied landscape over which we drifted. However, the site was quite crowded, with six or seven boats diving at the same time. This heavy traffic made the experience a bit hectic. Sadly, despite Manta Point’s reputation, we didn’t see any mantas during our dive. On a brighter note, we did spot an eagle ray feeding, adding a special moment to an otherwise bustling and somewhat disappointing dive.
The last dive of the day was Secret Garden. It is a good macro dive site. The visibility was horrible, but we did find a frogfish and a seahorse.
The boat moored near Padar Island for the night,, and we enjoyed the sunset with Pink Beach as a background.
Day 10: From Sunrise to Moonrise with Great Macro at Cannibal Rock
The day started early, as we woke up at 4:30 a.m. to catch the sunrise atop Padar Island. The climb is steep but easy, as they have built stones and wood steps. As the sun rose, it cast a golden light over the island’s rugged landscape, illuminating the curved bays and all the liveaboards with breathtaking beauty. The view was nothing short of spectacular, a perfect start to our adventurous day.
As we came down, we got great news as the weather cleared up, allowing us to head south to Kode Island for 2 dives at Cannibal Rock. Unlike any other dive site in Komodo, Cannibal Rock is unique. The water here is green and murky, appearing grey and dull at first. But as we got closer to the rock, we realized it was covered in pastel-colored corals and soft corals. Whipped and black corals added to the ghostly feel. I could spend hours looking at the shapes created by soft corals and tunicates.
We saw a few sea apples, which are extremely beautiful when they feed. Shrimps were everywhere—zebra crabs, orangutan crabs, candy crabs, skeleton shrimps, and many others I couldn’t name. We also found at least ten different kinds of nudibranchs, including some very uncommon ones. The site was so amazing that we did two dives there. On the last dive, a cute cuttlefish came to play with us.
Tip: The water in south Komodo is much colder so make sure you cover up. It was 24 degrees.
During our surface interval, we enjoyed the majestic beauty of Kode Bay. Komodo dragons and monkeys were walking on the beach while an eagle was busy fishing.
The navigation back to central Komodo was stunning. We saw another beautiful sunset, but the moonrise was even more mesmerizing.
Day 11: Turtles, Critters, and Flying Foxes
Our last day of diving took us to Siaba Besar. This site is known for its diverse underwater landscape, which includes sandy patches, coral gardens, and slopes. Unfortunately, this site has suffered from coral bleaching, which has resulted in fewer fish than before. However, the main attraction of Siaba Besar is the presence of many turtles. These turtles can often be seen feeding or resting among the corals, offering a delightful sight for divers.
Our group was particularly interested in macro diving, so for our last dive of the trip, we headed to Wainilu Island. Wainilu Island features a flat, sandy bottom covered by Xenia soft coral. While the overall appearance of the site might seem a bit monotonous at first glance, a closer look reveals a fascinating array of small marine life. We discovered zebra crabs and Coleman shrimp, octopuses, blue ribbon eels, and a variety of unique and beautiful nudibranchs.
After our final dive, we navigated back to Kalong Island to watch the sunset and the flying foxes. As the sun began to set, we were treated to the spectacular sight of thousands of flying foxes, also known as fruit bats, emerging from the mangroves. These large bats filled the sky, creating an incredible natural display against the backdrop of a colorful sunset. It was a mesmerizing experience that added a magical touch to our evening.
The crew of the Tiare set up a picturesque barbecue on the top deck of the boat. The setting was like a dream, with delicious meat and grilled tuna served fresh off the grill. As the night progressed, we enjoyed a lively karaoke party on our way back to Labuan Bajo. The camaraderie and fun we shared made it a memorable conclusion to our diving adventure.
Day 12: Departure
It was already time to depart. I had booked a 3 p.m. flight from Labuan Bajo back to Bali to ensure I had plenty of decompression time before my flight.
The Tiare boat was kind enough to let me check out at noon. ( many boats ask you to leave the boat at 8 or 9 am, which is not convenient if you have an afternoon flight)
Tip: My favorite Italian restaurant in Indonesia is Made in Italy, which is located in Labuan Bajo. So, I had the Tiare crew drop me off at Made in Italy, where I could enjoy a delicious lunch before my flight. Made in Italy offers free transport, so they dropped me off at the airport after lunch.
